How to choose a watch model for your individual image. Choice of hours.
The new indicator of status and style - or lack thereof - is the wristwatch. In the 1980s, the Great Watchmaking Revolution took place with the triumphant return of mechanical watches. Now consumers understand watches much better.
Since the Great Watch Revolution of the 1980s, when mechanical watches triumphantly returned after the explosion in the popularity of cheap quartz watches, consumers have become much more aware of watches. Before her, a watch was too small an accessory to indicate significant wealth, unlike, for example, a Ferrari 212 Barchetta or a Maserati 300S parked outside the Hotel de Paris in Monaco, comments columnist Ken Kessler in an article for The Wall Street Journal.
Nowadays, wristwatches are becoming an indicator of status and style. If today the Rolex brand is known to everyone, then in the 1950s and 60s it was known only to pilots and professional divers who really needed the functions provided in these watches.
As for the brands Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin and even the famous and recognizable Cartier, only aristocrats and nobles knew about them. Yes, there were exceptions. For example, the Patek Philippe was worn by musicians Duke Ellington, Miles Davis, Gene Autry, aviator Howard Hughes and other celebrities. Rolex was with actor Marlon Brando.
Today the red carpet at the Oscars is a parade for watch lovers. This does not mean that populism and egalitarianism have risen above the prestige that these brands carry. But now everyone, including the cabman and the doorman, the dentist and the family lawyer (especially the family lawyer), understands the difference between fine watchmaking art and watches for “mere mortals,” writes The Wall Street Journal.
In Russia, the attitude towards watches is also gradually changing, in the future it will probably be approximately the same as in the West - more moderate, says Nikolai Uskov, editor-in-chief of GQ magazine. “It seems to me that now the attitude towards good watches as a work of art that requires respect is returning. They began to be changed less often, they began to be collected rather than worn. It seems to me that this is correct. Gradually, people will simply choose some model that suits their position, mood, and wear, and not change to match the color of their shoes all the time."
Italians recommend having at least three watches - some according to your occupation, others classically elegant for formal or evening wear, and others durable for sports and leisure.
The Wall Street Journal has some tips on how to tailor a model to suit your individual look.
Style Icon - Dior VIII (from £ 3,050)
Despite John Galliano's antics, Dior is doing very well, especially with the watch.
In general, there has been a pleasant trend when fashion and jewelry houses that produce watches develop models worthy of the famous name, and not just decorate with their logos something from the assortment of jewelry stores in shopping malls, comments The Wall Street Journal.
Of course, in fashion, the name is everything. Therefore, the style icon should have its own preferences. Instead of Dior, you can also enter Chanel, Chaumet, Cartier (an absolute perennial favorite), Graff, Harry Winston and other prestigious brands producing serious watches. But a watch from the Dior VIII collection with a raised faceted bracelet and bezel, available with or without diamonds, with a dial diameter of 33 or 38 mm, is, among other things, very attractive to fashionistas and for the reason that it is a novelty, tomorrow.
The Traveler - Vogard Timezoner (from £ 3,500)
For active travelers, unlike those who rarely travel abroad, a watch with a "world time" function is needed. Almost all manufacturers have such models, but Vogard produces only such watches.
Two features make Vogard watches particularly attractive. Firstly, the patented method for quickly and easily rearranging the home time and the time at the point of residence (by simply turning the dial). Secondly, it is possible to order watches with individual engraving of 24 cities on the rim.
Banker - Patek Philippe Calatrava (from £ 12,980)
Given the current public sentiment, bankers should remember the motto of their pre-1980s predecessors: moderation is key. If once bankers and representatives of the financial sector were supposed to look very personable, then today this is not recommended. In the eyes of society, their reputation has suffered significantly. Today, the banker must personify prudence, solidity and reliability. Only one watch matches this image - Patek Philippe Calatrava, writes The Wall Street Journal. Produced continuously since 1932, born during the Great Depression, Calatrava combines serious functionality and elegance. To the unaccustomed eye, they are nameless. For those who understand, the watch will tell, for example, that its owner prefers Romani-Conti wines.
Entrepreneur - Richard Mille RM038 (£ 380,000)
An entrepreneur, like a banker, must inspire potential investors, and nothing speaks more of future success than current success. The entrepreneur understands the importance of personality details, such as a watch, in the early stages of communication. Among high-ranking businessmen flying in business class, the watch will tell a lot about its owner.
You don't even need to understand the subject to understand that a Richard Mille watch is something special.
Model RM038 is an example of high technology. The tourbillon is shock and shock resistant and can withstand the entrepreneur's major round of business negotiations - the game of golf. Earlier, the reliability of Richard Mille watches was proved by tennis player Rafael Nadal, who played in this watch at the Wimbledon tournament that was victorious for him, writes The Wall Street Journal. Now it is the turn of the golfer Jerry (Bubba) Watson, to whom the new RM 038 Tourbillon Bubba Watson watch is dedicated.
Bohemian Representative - Van Cleef & Arpels (£ 77,500)
Free spirit and imagination that knows no boundaries. Excellent execution, combining several decorative techniques. Van Cleef & Arpels dedicated its limited edition collection to the magical world of Jules Verne's travels. One of the models is based on the novel Five Weeks in a Balloon.
What kind of transportation is more bohemian than a hot air balloon? It is this symbol that is depicted on the dial from Van Cleef & Arpels, decorated with enamel and mother-of-pearl inlay. The arrows are made in the form of an anchor and a seagull.
Daredevil - Panerai Luminor Base Logo (£ 3,100)
The daredevil is fearless, often to the point of absurdity. There is nothing too complicated or too risky for him. In his life there are paragliders, surfing, SUVs, snowboards.
A watch for such a life should be chosen either in the spirit of “cheap and cheerful” among models that can literally withstand any shocks, or look for copies with enhanced technical characteristics.
Designed for the underwater saboteurs of the Italian navy in the 1930s, the Panerai Luminor watch has re-emerged as a cult diver's watch since the 1990s. The patron of the brand is Sylvester Stallone, who has shown it in several films, reminds The Wall Street Journal.
Secret Agent - Bremont Supermarine 500 (from £ 2,995)
Since real secret agents would rather not draw attention to themselves, a watch that is too big and flashy is not suitable for them. Super agent watches must be functional, reliable and accurate - to the second. The Bremont Supermarine 500 is accurate enough to be called a chronometer, magnetic field resistant and can withstand depths of up to 500 meters. So they can handle the challenges of Bond, Bourne and their colleagues. Bond would certainly appreciate another advantage of them: it is a British brand.
Speaking about fashion for watches in Russia, Nikolay Uskov identifies several trends.“At first, I had the feeling that the main trendsetters were the president and prime minister - Medvedev and Putin. Putin wore Patek Philippe as president, and Patek Philippe became the main bureaucratic watch. Then the Breguet brand performed the same function, - comments Uskov in an interview with BFM.ru. - Show business leaned more towards creative brands, in particular, Alain Silberstein, Jacob & Co. Watches of fashion houses have always been in great fashion - the most successful ones are from Chanel, Louis Vuitton, which can often be seen on the hands of celebrities."
A trendsetter of a different kind, according to Uskov, is undoubtedly Roman Abramovich, who for all his capabilities wore the simplest Rolex for a long time. And Rolex's cult status in the Russian business community is largely due to Abramovich. “Recently, he has been wearing watches that, in my opinion, cost $ 200 or $ 300,” continues Uskov. “And thus he emphasizes that he can afford to wear any watch, and not just those that are very expensive. Recently, such a feature has appeared - to wear a very cheap watch, completely inconsistent with your status and capabilities. Channel One CEO Konstantin Ernst has been wearing a simple Swatch model for many years. Steel Rolex is a fairly simple watch, by and large, it's just expensive. And this is just such concentrated self-irony."
Photo: Pen Waggener flickr.com/epw