Men are showing more and more interest in fashion trends. Shows of menswear for the spring-summer 2011 season in Milan and Paris.
In June 2011, menswear shows for the spring-summer 2011 season were held in two international fashion capitals. As always, the Italians have relied on youth and sexuality, and the French, in the midst of the crisis, presented an unexpected surprise.
The latest research by specialists has noted a surge in interest in fashion among the representatives of the stronger sex - at the last Fashion Weeks, men were presented with an unprecedented abundance of designer novelties and, let's not be afraid of this word, innovations.
Thus, the American research center Allure & GQ published a statistical report for 2010 (1000 men and 1000 women, aged 18 to 64, participated in the survey). As expected, studies have shown that women spend more time and money maintaining their beauty, but the gap between men and women is steadily narrowing.
And recently Natalie Massenet, founder of Net-A-Porter.com, one of the most successful sites specializing in the sale of luxury brands for women, announced the launch of a new website for the sale of designer novelties for menswear early next year. Mr. Porter will begin its work with proposals of the first lines of the spring-summer 2011 collections by Burberry, Ralph Lauren, Lanvin, YSL, Gucci, Margiela, Balmain, Dunhill, Margaret Howell, Rick Owens, John Lobb & MR by Roland Mouret, which were demonstrated at the past Fashion Weeks in Milan and Paris. So let's start in order.
At Milan Fashion Week (Milano Moda Uomo)held from 19 to 22 June, viewers were shocked by fresh ideas and proposals from famous brands. One of the most successful is the collection of men's clothing. Versace.
Martyn Bal, the company's new menswear designer, has presented his debut collection aimed at the brand's young customers. He encourages men not to be ashamed of their attractiveness, using both a wide arsenal of favorite Versace graphic prints and designer shirts with bibs, shirts and trousers made of the finest kid leather.
Christopher Bailey in my new collection Heir Biker for Burberry Prorsum made extensive use of the archives of the brand, not forgetting about modern accents. Critics have called the collection the best of his work for a reputable company. The craftsmanship of military tailors in traditional raincoats, which Bailey adorned with leather details and studded belts, remains unrepeatable. The character of the biker was guessed in vests, jackets and trousers. Attention was drawn to the sets of a biker vest with jersey trousers, a biker jacket with an exquisite suede coat, a safari shirt with a studded vest. The collection traced a combination of youthful vulnerability and masculine self-confidence.
Bottega Veneta collection by Tomas Maier was dedicated to a man-traveler, so all the things of the young man looked deliberately careless and slightly rumpled, as if they had just been extracted from the bowels of the trunk of a car. Wonderful sets combined both hyper-casual and super-fit; especially good were monochrome ensembles of complex burgundy, olive and deep blue.
The Alexander McQueen collection it is difficult to call the best, but it is one of the most anticipated. After the death of Alexander McQueen, the brand was taken over by his right-hand man, Sarah Burton. The collection was named "Splendor and circumstance", which hinted at the continuity of the famous designer's style. Two key points - some theatricality and deliberate negligence, spoke of two directions in the master's work: his refined aristocracy combined with "proletarian" predilections.
Collection "Breakfast on the Grass" (Le dejeuner sur l'herbe) D & G's Metropol Theater told about the simple joys of being. The podium was covered with grass, the backdrops of the scenery were pictures of dense trees, and a “home” movie about a family picnic was projected onto the screen. Relax gentlemen, relax in D&G clothes!
The Vichy cage, which is widely used in the manufacture of tablecloths and napkins, has been declared a find of this season. Nothing of the kind, this cotton can be used to make a variety of clothes, says the famous duo of designers.
Frida Giannini was inspired by the style icons of the boisterous 60s. Her latest collection was full of not only replica Rolling Stones suits, but also traditional Gucci accents. Luxurious male looks were presented in a combination of blues and browns. A group of models made from organic cotton looked convincing: safari suits and windbreakers.
“This is our first show of the second century of the brand,” said the grandchildren of the brand founder, Gildo, Anna and Paolo Zena. Collection Ermenegildo Zegna consisted of luxurious silk suits with cropped jackets and trousers. She was characterized by a natural shoulder line and an emphasis on the waist with a belt that reached the long end to mid-thigh. The restrained color scheme of the collection exploded with an additional exquisite orange hue.
Etro collection, as always, joyful and optimistic. Ethnic prints adorn almost all models of menswear. The main accent is a chiffon shirt, deeply opened on the chest, emphasizing the athletic build of the models. An extravaganza of color and a riot of prints in a harmonious combination - such a summer from Etro!
Collection Giorgio armani contained all the distinctive marks of the brand: precise cut and proportions, classic with original details. This year, an additional emphasis was the bright makeup of male models. The main theme of the show is a double-breasted jacket with a compositional center on the chest. Armani plays with the clasp, sometimes using shiny fittings. The lapels of jackets have undergone experiments: they are variously cut, draped, trimmed with contrasting materials.
Following the shows in Milan in Paris, the next Men's Fashion Week exploded. The leading editors of the world's fashion publications and the sophisticated French public were overwhelmed by the trend proposed by some French fashion houses, recognized standards of taste, elegance and Parisian chic.
Dries van noten, one of the experimenters in fashion, has presented an uncharacteristic understated collection inspired by the British style of the 70s. The designer is bringing back the prestige of tailoring with its crisp shoulder line and masterly tailoring. However, this did not prevent the master from mixing the masterpieces of thimble and needles with grunge attributes - casually washed jeans, reminding that the owners of strict jackets are modern youth. Hand-painted silk shirts, made in an atelier near Lake Kamo, attracted the attention of critics. We were surprised by the "heavy tweed" coat, which was made of a fabric woven from a mixture of cotton and nylon fibers, and a "mohair" sweater, which on closer inspection turned out to be made of linen.
Paul Helbers, the director of the Louis Vuitton menswear studio, the leader of international fashion, presented the image of a virtual traveler around the world, where a distinctive feature of luxury clothing was the technique of skin tattooing, from which the original models of jackets, windbreakers and bags were made. The author was especially fond of lace-up trousers of amazing fit.
Stefano Pilatti, Creative Director Yves saint laurent, presented his collection of menswear, inspired by the life and work of the American writer Paul Bowles during his voluntary exile to North Africa, Tangier. Having rethought the national types of clothing of the peoples of North Africa in a revolutionary way, the designer proposed sharp novelties in men's fashion, which caused a storm of enthusiasm among the public.
The presented collection is a response to the many years of women's encroachment on men's wardrobe items. At first glance, the relaxed wide A-shaped shorts, more reminiscent of a skirt, are striking, complete with a jacket casually thrown over the shoulders of a clearly not classic style. The designer's sharp suggestion is also wide belts, reminiscent of matador corset belts. For residents of the city, obi belts are offered, worn over a fitted suit, and for out-of-town walks, shirts and T-shirts with soft high belts worn on them made of contrasting printed fabrics tucked into trousers.
Critics were overwhelmed by collection Miharayasahiro, the young Japanese designer Mihara Yasahiro. The audience was shocked not only by the visual and acoustic effects of the Japanese company WOW, which were an equal part of the visualization of the show images, but also by the clothing models made in the author's technique, which has no analogues in the technology of fabric processing. The Japanese designer reflected in his collection the concern for the state of the planet's ecology and invited people to decorate themselves with what we “thank” Mother Nature. To this end, the jeweler Husam el Odeh has developed a collection of bijoux depicting a variety of metal objects and equipment parts. They were lavishly decorated with many models of the show.
Designer Veronique Nichanian presented the show Hermes with models of clothes of amazing white. Designer summer coats and jackets were made in a unique "technical madras" covering the surface of the fabric with the finest perforation. Green has been chosen as the accent color of the collection; the author calls its shade "mint", but rather it is emerald.
In the year of the 40th anniversary of the foundation Kenzo brands Japanese designer Kenzo Takada Antonio Marras traveled in the opposite direction. According to him, the French artist went to study traditional Japanese art. The results of the penetration of elements of oriental decorating techniques into European costume were the leitmotif of the collection.
The first models of the show were designed in the traditional Mediterranean colors: blue, white and alternating blue and white stripes. Then, with a dive into the Japanese aesthetic, hand-weaving, crocheting, quilted samurai costumes, and traditional hand-dyeing techniques are added. The undoubted hit of the collection was the models with the finest Japanese watercolor paintings.
"Antidote to laziness" - this is how Alber Elbaz called his collection for Lanvin, co-authored with an assistant, Lucas Ossendrijver. Clothes designed for active actions are made of fabrics of amazing textures. So, a man's suit made of embossed floral silk looks very sensual. Unusual for men's assortment and coats with elements of patchwork techniques.
We are used to the sophisticated sensuality of Elbaz female models, but the fact that he offers his brand name to men is surprising. Alber Elbaz notes that at the present time the interpenetration of men's and women's wardrobes is growing: "Therefore, the unity of men and women is so tangible in this collection."
The use of large jewelry also attracted attention, to which Elbaz replied: "If women wear trousers, then men can wear jewelry."
Kim Jones continues to seek inspiration from the archives Dunhill. As it was many years ago, discipline and restraint are the motto to which the firm and its fans are faithful. The collection is based on impeccable cut. This year, the hallmark is the high double-breasted one-row button closure. Of course, everything new is well forgotten old. Although this element of men's fashion was popular in the 20s of the last century, today it looks no less modern and relevant. Reverance towards classic English sportswear was made by the designer in the form of suede jackets.
If the talented artist continues to move in this direction, then soon we will be able to declare a new heyday of the former glory of Dunhill.
