2023 Author: Katelyn Chandter | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-05-21 13:08
Correct braking with downshifting and rpm synchronization. The topic is complex and takes time to adapt and practice.
As a continuation of the series on road bike handling, we are smoothly moving to the next stage of development and complicating what we already know how to do easily. So, today's topic will be downshift braking and rpm sync. The topic is very difficult and takes some time to adapt and practice.
Theory. The most effective braking is when the weight of the motorcycle and the rider is on the front wheel, the fork is practically reduced and the force is transmitted to the brake discs, which borders on the locking of the front wheel. When braking, the rear wheel is used only to obtain some kind of effect from a series of trial breaking. Rear brake braking on the track is very ineffective, as it is not uncommon for the rear wheel to become visible or hanging in the air during braking.
At the moment the wheel lands, it is necessary that the engine speed matches the wheel speed, otherwise it can be great, since the wheel will most likely be out of sync and will rotate either faster or slower than the speed of the motorcycle. We do not consider pressing the clutch and other wrong controls, since we need the gyroscopic effect on the wheel to stabilize the motorcycle when driving in a straight line.
Take the Honda Fireblade CBR1000RR liter motorcycle as an example. On another bike, the RPM range may be different and the RPM match may be the same. In this case, we look at the theory here and project it onto our device.
So, we figured out the theory. Go. Are we accelerating to maximum speed? 297 km / h and bring down in a straight line. At the mark of 100 meters, we press the brakes and, with a re-gasification and gear shifting down, we tumble into a turn of 160, what is the second gear? Sounds convincing, but let's do it so that you can brake and confidently enter a turn, and not with a great risk of not entering.
Braking
We close the throttle and push gently to start shrinking the fork, it is advisable to do this in such a way that when you close the throttle and transfer the weight forward, add load to the fork while pressing the brakes. That is, we do not press on the brakes immediately and strongly, but at first smoothly and add the load progressively. (This does not mean doing everything slowly, you can do everything very quickly, but you need to dose the load in this way.) That is, the task is to make a smooth transfer of weight to the front wheel. Considering that on a straight line, the mass is more on the rear wheel, since we are accelerating at full speed … You do not need to throw the entire mass forward immediately, since at the moment of energy transfer you can lose contact of the front wheel. We smoothly transfer it to the front and then we begin to effectively brake.
We begin to shift the weight of the body forward by lightly pressing the brake.
We continue to transfer the weight to the front, we press harder.
Then, with the transferred weight, press as much as possible on the brake foot to stop.
We brake as efficiently as possible.
Maximum braking performance.
That is, we divide braking into 2 stages: weight transfer (smooth and progressive, that is, constantly increasing pressure on the foot) and braking itself (constant pressure on the edge of wheel blocking)
So our engine speed begins to drop along with the damping of speed
6th gear - 10,000 revolutions goes into 8,000,
Tachometer 8000 rpm.
we press the clutch (not completely, but before it starts to slip, perhaps a little more) and re-gas, that is, we raise the revs by several thousand
Tachometer 10,000 rpm.
so that at the moment of downshifting and when the clutch is released, the rpm is set ideally relative to the speed.
Re-gasing is done already at the moment of effective braking and not at the moment of transferring weight to the front wheel.
Attention! Train at low rpm so that when the clutch is released, your speed is not higher than the end of the tachometer of your motorcycle. Because if the maximum engine speed and, accordingly, the wheels are lower than the speed of movement of the motorcycle, then most likely there will be a fall due to blocking of the rear wheel. A slipping clutch can save the tragedy, but you shouldn't make mistakes where it can be dangerous.
Driving at maximum revs during re-gasification.
Therefore, do not over-throttle so that your maximum RPM value is almost at the end of the tachometer.
The border zone is 11,000 revolutions.
Very small margin for error. In the future, you can ride even on the verge of a cutter, but you can train in more gentle modes.
How is the rebase done?
You keep your middle finger on the brake foot and keep decelerating the speed without changing the effort on the foot.
Start of braking on closed gas.
At this point, your left hand presses the clutches and your right hand raises the engine speed, resting on the middle finger as a lever.
We raise the revs by 2,000 with braking.
Braking with an increase in speed.
For those who want to re-gas and brake with the middle and forefinger, it is better to buy such a brake machine that you can press on with only one finger, because it is very inconvenient to brake with the middle and forefinger and re-gas. But of course it is possible. Train the right skills.
So we release the clutch and have, say, 10,000 rpm, but already in 5th gear. We repeat the above operations and go to 4th gear, then 3rd, then the second, and at this very moment we tumble into the turn and continue to extinguish the speed. Then, smoothly releasing the brakes, we add gas and drove off.
We release the brakes with a set of gas.
We will write another article about how to brake when cornering.
Happy training!